The Parsi Community Bonds by Revisiting Ancient Traditions
In the pandemic there is comfort in recipes of the past
Niloufer is a cookbook author and cooking instructor with a great passion for food and a love of world travel.
In the pandemic there is comfort in recipes of the past
Quiz nights, singing contests, mental wellness instructions, traditional cooking classes and daily prayers are just a few things that were on offer to help the Parsi community stay strong and resilient during these troubled times.
Miniscule in numbers yet formidable in impact, the ancient community of Zarthushtis — of which I am proud to be a part — continues to thrive through this tedious time in history, adapting to the need of the hour as best as we can. We organized through the team effort of our global associations to engage in sharing our creativity and spirit of community in looking after our own and our neighbors.
The great responsibility, squarely placed on the shoulders of Parsi scientist Dr Poonawalla, to produce the millions of anti-Covid vaccinations from his laboratory (the largest in the world) in Pune speaks volumes of our contribution as a community.
As we watch, bewildered, the number of deaths rise among our own, we also take joy in the wonderful stories of kindness and generosity among strangers that gladden the heart and rekindle faith in humanity. It has only strengthened our trust and belief that all creations are equal and intertwined. Through all of this we continue to enjoy long distance socializing boldly facing adversity ensuring it leaves us feeling unbeaten.
On a personal note – I was asked to volunteer and start teaching traditional Parsi cooking. Starting with just 20 participants in March it turned into a success story of a ‘Zoom club’ with over 500 participants – welcome to anyone, with the tag line #revivinganancientcuisine.
As for all educators, there is always great learning in teaching others. While many of my students could already cook fairly well, there was a great desire to try something new or to become better home cooks. For some it was an opportunity to try their hand at old Parsi recipes that they had only heard about from their parents and grandparents. They were excited and appreciative. My reward in all of this was far greater than theirs – the ability to revive my ancient cuisine – the very core of our rich culture and heritage. And as the kind thank you notes with pictures of their proud dishes flowed-in, it was indeed joyful acknowledgement. Wonderful ancient recipes like chaapat (coconut pancakes) and kumas (saffron cake) were taught to a new generation. Chatty exchanges of various batasa (butter biscuits) and bhakra (fried tea cakes) filled the pages on social media. Many more traditional dishes which only “granny” used to make, like murumbo, ravo and daar ni pori were happily shared virtually. But mostly it was a series of proud moments for Parsi food and Parsi cooking that truly seem to have captured the hearts of our sparse community.
It is obvious from this crisis that human beings adapt to situations when necessary. This has been Mother Nature’s healer, uniting us. Making the best of the situation, many families grew together. The frontline and medical workers finally earned higher respect than the favorite sportsmen and actors!
My own kitchen has been no different. The music plays while the stovetop cooks up a storm. My oven bakes a variety of comfort foods and goodies. The kettle whistles insistently. But I am still missing something – people. I yearn for the friends and family who often visit our home and frequently stay to share a meal. I do miss my cookery luncheons where we cook and eat together, sharing our kitchen anecdotes.
While sharing food is the oldest form of socializing, I think the road ahead for some time is going to take on a different path. It will be important to keep both our feet firmly on the ground by cooking simply, using local produce in a familial style – exactly what Parsi cooking is all about. Let me assure you there is plenty of warmth to simplicity at any dinner party with close friends and family. The only ingredient that truly matters in cooking is love – which always manages to clearly shine through whatever we may choose to serve. Let us focus on the wonderful days ahead with a hope to be blessed enough to share once again with our dear ones, in good health. 
Daar ni Pori – My Daar ni Potli (Sweetened Lentils in Pastry)
Daar ni Pori is prepared in two parts: the filling(daar) and the outside pastry called the pur (consisting of the dough and the maan).
This wonderful pastry is served on happy occasions, gifted to bridal parties at weddings and is very special.
While the Daar ni Pori looks like a thick stuffed rotli, I have shared my way of making this delicacy look pretty with all the authentic flavors intact. It is my sweet lentil crostata.
NOTE: You will need to begin this recipe TWO days ahead of cooking, to soak the lentils, cook them, and chill overnight.
- Servings Makes 2
Ingredients
For the Daar (filling):
- 296 ml (1 1/4 cup) channa daar (split bengal gram lentils)
- 5 ml (1 teaspoon) sea salt
- 177 ml (3/4 cup) sugar
- 15 ml (1 tablespoon) ghee
- 30 ml (2 tablespoons) rosewater
- 15 ml (1 tablespoon) candied orange peel
- 15 ml (1 tablespoon) chopped blanched almonds
- 15 ml (1 tablespoon) chopped unsalted pistachios
- 15 ml (1 tablespoon) chopped charoli nuts*
- 2.5 ml (1/2 teaspoon) vanilla extract
- 2.5 ml (1/2 teaspoon) ground cardamom
- 1.3 ml (1/4 teaspoon) crushed saffron threads
- 1.3 ml (1/4 teaspoon) freshly grated nutmeg
For the Pur (dough):
- 177 ml (3/4 cup) all-purpose flour, sifted
- 60 ml (1/4 cup) fine semolina
- 5 ml (1 teaspoon) salt
- 78 ml (1/3 cup) ghee
- 60 ml (1/4 cup) rosewater
For the Pur (maan):
- 60 ml (1/4 cup) ghee
- 60 ml (1/4 cup) all-purpose flour, plus additional as needed
For assembly
- Ghee or oil for greasing baking trays
- Slivered almonds, pistachios and edible rose petals
* Charoli nuts are wild almond nuts that are available in Indian grocery stores. They can easily be omitted from the recipe if they are unavailable.
Preparation
For the Daar:
Wash and soak the lentils overnight.Rinse lentils again. In a deep pot, boil the lentils in 473 ml (2 cups) water with the salt for an hour. Remove any foam that forms while they cook. Remove from the heat and add the sugar and the ghee. Stir until you can feel the sugar melt. With an immersion blender, pulverize the cooked lentils until smooth.
Return the pan to the stove and cook until all the water has evaporated. Add the remaining filling ingredients, mixing well. Adjust salt and sugar as needed. Chill overnight, and divide equally in two before filling the pastry.
For the Dough (Pur):
Toss the flour, semolina, and salt together. Add the ghee by, using your fingertips or two knives, cutting it into the dry ingredients until it resembles crumbs. Add the rosewater and bring it all together until well combined to resemble a soft, smooth dough.
Cover with a tea towel and allow it to rest for 20 minutes.
For the Maan:
In a pan, heat and melt the ghee, then add the flour. Cook this over medium heat, constantly stirring until smooth. Bring to a boil and continue to cook until it resembles a soft, thin paste; about 3 minutes. Remove it from the heat and allow it to cool and thicken just enough to easily apply over the rolled out dough. Divide equally.
For Assembly:
Grease two 18 cm (7 inch) round foil trays. Divide the dough into 4 equal parts.
On a parchment paper, roll out two parts of the dough to 15 cm (6 inch) rounds. Take half of the maan paste and spread most of it (saving 5 ml/1 teaspoon to finish it off) on one of the rolled pastry discs. Cover with the second rolled pastry disc and further roll them out to a 23 cm (9 inch) circle. Apply the remaining maan paste to the top of this larger disc.
Place the pastry on your greased baking foil tray, covering it completely with an even overhang. Do not press down hard on it. Spoon half the cooled lentil mixture on top of the pastry. Gently pull the overhang over the mound of lentils, overlapping and pinching the pastry to resemble a crostata. Sprinkle it with the slivered almonds.
Repeat for the remaining half of the recipe.
Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F). Bake the potlis for 35 minutes or until a light golden brown. Garnish with pistachios and rose petals. They are best served warm.
Tips
Butter or browned butter (that has been cooled and refrigerated) can be used instead of ghee. Lightly dust the rolling pin with flour to make rolling easier.
The daar can be made up to 3 days ahead. It also freezes well.
Do not allow the daar to dry out completely. Once cooled, it will thicken up. The perfect consistency is to be able to soft scoop.
To make traditional daar ni poris, lift the overhang and pull it over to the center, ensuring that it is sealed together. Press gently with the palm of your hand to form an even disc.
Do not overbake the potlis or the poris. They should have a soft pink hue on them once cooked. To reheat, it is best to use the oven or a hot skillet. Do not use a microwave.
Niloufer Mavalvala
Born and raised in Karachi, with London, Toronto and Dubai all part of her life, Niloufer has travelled extensively. Passionate about culture through its cuisine she enjoys all cuisines of the world. Self taught, her experience through the years has driven her to write a blog NiloufersKitchen.com and publish two Parsi cookbooks – receiving 3 awards. She strongly believes that while we are identified by race, religion and colour, we share the tightest bonding through food. Her umpteen zoom demos through this pandemic have picked up momentum worldwide making #revivinganancientcuisine one recipe at a time her priority. Niloufer runs regular cookery lessons via Zoom.
Courtesy photo
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