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Editor’s note: If you’d like to offer a choice of dipping sauces, Nuoc Cham is another great dipping sauce for Vietnamese summer rolls.

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Be sure to wear gloves for handling the hot peppers.  If you handle hot peppers often,  you will be okay with the heat on your hands but if you inadvertently touch other, more sensitive body parts, you may be in for an uncomfortable ride.  I have experienced habañero eyes more than once and it lasts for hours. You will not need to remove the skin or seeds from the tomatoes. It is much work and they will be strained out after cooking.

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Many people probably never heard of  lactic cheese, but it is worth getting to know.  The process to make this cheese is the same as for making chevre, or goat cheese.  The difference, of course, is that cow’s milk is used in the lactic cheese as opposed to goat milk.

The cheese is good refrigerated for about 2 weeks (if it lasts uneaten for that long). Mix it with herbs or spices, or in Smoked Salmon Cheese Dip.

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My most vivid childhood memory of the various Passover rituals is my father coming
in from the porch, crying like a baby. It was his job to grate the horseradish.
Every year I salute his efforts by making ‘chrain’ for my own family (and often enough to
give to friends). I use a processor, but cry anyway. Though the window is open, there’s
no escaping the angry fumes. Like a nuclear cloud, they suck up all the oxygen.  So be
advised: when you remove the processor lid (to stir, to taste), stand back, breathe
through your mouth, and if you have them, wear goggles.

Sydney and Ida’ s Horseradish

Makes 355 to 473 ml (1 ½ to 2 cups)

355 ml (1 ½ cups, packed) .7 cm (1/3-inch) dice peeled horseradish root (about 198 grams/7 ounces)
60 ml (1/4 cup) sugar
4 ml (¾ teaspoon) Morton’s coarse kosher salt or 6-7 ml (1 ¼ -1½ teaspoons) Diamond Crystal
177 ml (¾ cup) distilled white vinegar
118 ml (½ cup) finely grated fresh beet (optional)

Blend the first 3 ingredients in a processor until very finely ground, scraping down the
sides of the bowl once or twice. Add the vinegar. Blend until the horseradish is thick and
fluffy. If desired, blend in the grated beet (the texture will be looser). Adjust to taste with
salt and/or sugar by 1/4 teaspoonfuls, and with vinegar by tablespoonfuls. Refrigerate
tightly closed in a glass container for up to 2 weeks.

Now that you’ve made fresh horseradish for Passover, use leftovers after Passover in Skirt Steak with Horseradish Potato Salad.

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To make this recipe, collect fresh cream or malai daily at home from the top of slow-boiled milk and store this collected cream in freezer. You can use readymade heavy cream too.

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